Paris, I’m barely scratching the surface but long to penetrate…
A few days here and there is all I’ve experienced of Paris over the last few years. I’m thinking it is about time I plunge in and get a real dose of the city everyone loves to love (& hate). Not sure how I will achieve this but I hope to play the ex-pat writer in the city of lights one day. Yesterday was my final day at Tinto Fino. A sweet shop it was but vinos de España and I weren’t meant to be. Now I find myself dreaming of the possibilities. I’m free (and yes poor) again. I can keep dreaming, can’t I?
My most recent morsel of Paris was just for 3 days. My friend, May Matta, joined me for walks, talks, eating & drinking. We stayed in the pricey-posh neighborhood of St-Germain-des-Prés and tested the grounds with two local spots: Boissonnerie and Le Comptoir. Francois Chidaine, whose Montlouis and Vouvray wines I adore, recommended the former. The latter restaurant has plenty of buzz online and was suggested to me by Sharon Bowman.
We almost didn’t make it to Le Comptoir but after stumbling upon La Crèmerie (they weren’t serving lunch that day) we were encouraged to try and get a table there. It was a moment that couldn’t be planned. We spied Doug & Tina Polaner seated at the packed out spot. They kindly gave us the remains of a bottle of Lapierre Morgon, which I preceded with a glass of Renardat-Fâche Cerdon. I needed something pretty, fresh and light for the 85-degree scorcher of a day. The food made me swoon. May and I noshed on dishes of white asparagus, baked eggs with cepes with Peruvian potato chips and snails drenched in butter and parsley.
The chow at La Boissonerie was equally good as was exemplified in a first course of eel with crème fraiche and second courses of succulent rare lamb chops with lentilles du Puy and an exquisite fish dish that May ordered, topped with an orange grated root vegetable (no not carrots) I haven’t heard of – all of it sitting in a mushy cloud of potato and pistachio nut oil. Perfection. I immersed myself in Chenin. First the razor sharp and salivating Belliviere Jasniere Les Rosiers ‘08, followed by a rather rich Pierre-Bise Anjou Le Haut de la Garde (2008), a sans souffre wine that seemed to have botrytized grapes in there.
A repeat performance was made at Verre Vole (I’d been in Oct last year) where I had my first taste of Domaine Prieuré-Roch Nuits “1” 2007, a Nuits St. Georges1er Cru. OMG. Winemaker Henry-Frédéric Roch, is the co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and the wine is not available in the States. It is Burgundy that’ll make you cry. Really reminded me of Pacalet – earthy, floral, hints of iodine. Just stunning.
Finally, dinner was had at quedubon in the Belleville neighborhood. The restaurant was adorable, staff was lovely and the food was honest and tasty. Had some of the best cheese here and discovered a very lovely pet-nat VdT from Montlouis called “Rose à Lies” produced by Jousset, along with an Alsatian blanc – Sylvie Spielman Riesing Reserve Bergheim 2007. The Jousset was so good I ordered two glasses.
June 2nd, 2010 at 7:26 am
Try to get to the Montmartre area and some of the African restaurants nearby.
June 3rd, 2010 at 4:01 pm
Thomas, I want to go back and truly explore. There are meant to be a lot of good Arabic restaurants there too. I did spend a few hours in Monmatre, mostly marveling at the view.
June 8th, 2010 at 4:30 pm
Hello Pameladevi,
I’ve just discovered your blog. And..I’ve just finished reading M.F.K. Fisher’s “Long Ago in France” (for the 3rd time). Your blog on Paris makes it just as alive as her wonderful books.
One question…are you ordering by the glass? Or are those wines only available in bottle. How does it work there now.
Michele
June 10th, 2010 at 5:47 pm
Hi Michele,
That’s quite a compliment. Thank you! Most of the wines I mention are by the glass but in some instances (like the Domaine Prieuré-Roch) the wines were only available by the bottle. Overall, I felt generally spoiled with the selection of the btg list at the restaurants I mentioned above.
Thank you again for reading.
June 21st, 2010 at 1:59 pm
That’s interesting. I haven’t traveled in Europe for about 7 years. I found by the glass limited. Traveling alone…that made it very hard to try really good wines (unless I bought the whole bottle). It’s good to know that it is a little different now.
You have to search out restaurants here too (Central California Coast) that have a good by the glass program…so I’m not expressing any criticism above. Michele