SELECTION PAS MAL

Two days after Alice’s champagne tasting, I descended upon the Selection Pas Mal champagne and Burgundy tasting (more about the Burg later). These were new discoveries for me and it was a case of too much good wine under one roof. Plus, we got to chat to the charming Becky Wasserman and witness the enduring moment when, son, Peter Wasserman got all embarrassed when he realized his mother was attentively listening to his enthused rap on of a Burgundy winemaker. OK, enough cuteness, back to the champers.

Jose Dhondt Blanc de Blanc Brut was sensationally chalky, the Mes Vielles Grand Cru 2002 was mineral, earthy and a tad funky, while the Rose Saignee was sooo pretty, wine-y and earthy. From what I gather Jose Dhondt is an RM producer, he emphasizes low yields, hand picks, ferments and elevage in tank.

Vazart-Coquart is located in Chouilly. They have a lot of old stocks and add very little dosage to their champagne. Brut Reserve Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru is a focused wine, bone dry, chalky and delicious. Bouteille Club 2002 Grand Cru had a super yeasty nose and was quite full and sumptuous on the palate. It was aged on the lees for 7 years before disgorging.

Bernard Giradin has been making champagne since the 1950s and his daughter, Sandrine, has taken over the winemaking. The Vintage Brut 2002 is truly beautiful. My note: “intense, full, Krug-like, I-like.” [I refer to Krug before they went commercial]

Bernard Bremont is based in the grand cru village of Ambonnay. His Brut Grand Cru was funky, cheesy and lees-y, the Cuvee Prestige Grand Cru was stunning – earthy, complex, had beautiful fruit, like a Burgundy with bubbles.

Jacques Picard (based in the Berru village of Montaigne de Reims) was a major discovery for me. This family run domaine does partial vinification in oak. Their Brut Cru is INCREDIBLE. I could taste the damn minerals from the soil – it was like iodine. Art de Vigne 2001 was slightly oxidized, showed tremendous yeast autolysis, it was intense and had such beautiful acidity. I was wowed.

I may no longer drink champers tous le dimanche but merely recalling the spine tingling Selosse Substance and Picard Art de Vigne on Sunday afternoons is enough, for now.