Less-manipulated, low or no-SO2 wines are hitting London’s wine bar scene. The country better known for consuming conventional French claret and cheap Aussie plonk has a couple of on-premise gems serving the kind of stuff that restores my faith in the world of restaurant wine lists. The most famous of them is Terroirs, recently opened in central London, just off the Strand. Since opening, the stylish wine bar has become a darling of the press, basking in rave reviews for both its tasty French-Spanish-Italian small plates and the risk-taking wine list. After hearing the buzz, I’m pleased to announce that Terroirs delivers.

Jim and I arranged to meet Isaure, the very charming daughter of Michèle de Jessey, of Dom du Closel (in Savennières), for a drink at Terroirs. She kindly introduced us to the co-owner of Terroirs, a Frenchman who once owned a wine bar in Brittany - Vincent Wallard. We enjoyed talking to them both about the winemakers we love in the Loire and about the misconceptions surrounding natural wines, including the very irritating tendency to dump the category together with organic and/or biodynamic wines.

Later on, my favorite London pal, Isabel, and her boyfriend joined us for dinner. We polished off a bottle of Domaine le Briseau Kharactêr, a Jasnieres appellation wine made from 50 Y.O. Chenin Blanc vines.  I know and love this domaine and their wines – always such easy wines to drink with purity of fruit (some of their wines, including this one, undergo semi-carbonic maceration) and a nice dose of mineral. We followed up with Domaine de Montrieux Côteaux Du Vendômois (Pineau D’Aunis). I hadn’t heard of this producer but have since learned that the winemaker is  Emile Heredia and he farms organically and makes wine naturally. I am not familiar with the appellation either but I believe it gained it’s AOC status in 2001. Elias (Isabel’s BF) described the wine as “raw” – a term I must pinch because the description is spot on and raw  is exactly how I like my wine.