Supped at my stepson and future daughter-in-law’s recently. There were too many good wines on the table to taste with mozarella di bufala and hanger steak: Alice de Moor’s Tirage de Printemps A Ligoter (Aligoté at its best and available by the glass at Ten Bells), Axel Prufer Le Temps des Cerises (a très naturel Grenache from Languedoc, that’ll knock you off your chair – and appeal to all who lust after Dard et Ribo’s Printemps), Christian Venier le Clos de Carteries ’08 (a Cab Sauv. and Gamay blend (all gritty mineral, nicely tannic and a kiss of wild strawberries).

 

For aperitif, Hervé Villemand “Bulles” from Cheverny was a cutie and sits in the category of quirky bubbly (where I place Mosse’s Moussamousettes, Brun’s FRV, Bonard’s sparkling Poulsard and Andrea Calek’s Blonde Pétillant). Bulles is a gamay, pineau d’aunis and pinot noir mix – a Dressner import with a hot pink label that’s equal parts punk and chic.

 

Le Temps des Cerises has been a bit of a natural wine whore of late (google it and see what I mean) but it was my first taste. I was hard pressed to guess its Languedoc origins. Guilhaume Gerard, formerly of Terroir in San Francisico, once described the Dashe Cellars Zinfandel as a “see through” wine during an interview I had with him for an assignment, meaning it wasn’t over extracted, dark, inky or hot, as is so typical of Cali Zins. Le Temps des Cerises reminded me of his idiosyncratic expression. In my glass I swirled a see-thru red wine, which was funky, herbaceous and spritzy too. I love, love, love it, even if almost everyone else does too.

 

Indulged in a bottle of C. Pacalet Côte de Brouilly on Saturday night (I love his Chroubles). It started like many a good Brouilly  – light, showing purity of fruit. I was enjoying its seemingly uncomplicated character and then bam (!). All of a sudden the last glass was a very different wine. The wine had started off as a sweet Fred Astaire and turned into a brooding mineral Marlon Brando by the end of the evening. I was intrigued and floored, taking smaller sips to prolong the sensation of dirt, grit, mineral and soil. I love a wine that surprises and captivates.

My blog has been neglected, sorely neglected. I returned from Mauritius 3 weeks ago. My heart was broken many times over as my father experienced one complication after another. Somehow he made it through. And he’s getting better.

 

One evening in Mauritius while my mother and I sat for our nightly ritual of a campari and soda on the patio after dad had taken his medication and fallen asleep, she shared many recipes with me. We spoke softly and the nights were not filled with music or social chatter, we always had an ear out for dad who would often call for us from his broken body (which thankfully mends as I write this). Food was our main communication when we wanted to talk about something else, get our minds off our fears.

 

I won’t lie, I missed New York during my six week journey to my dad’s heart (and brain) and back again so it seemed right that I should gather my best friends, feed them, drink good wine and revel in celebration. On Dec 30^th I requested guests don their glad rags (most of them did) and bring a bottle. It was possibly one the best parties we’ve had. I made an industrial sized pot of haleem, which was devoured down to the last bit. I was impressed, I was proud.

 

 

Haleem is a hearty Persian and Pakistani stew made with lamb or mutton and lentils, dal and barley. It is rich and festive, and a typical Muslim dish in Mauritius. Here is my mother’s recipe for haleem (known in Mauritius as halim).

 

(Serves 2-4 people)

1 heaped tablespoon Shaan Haleem Mix

1lb Lamb shoulder, cut on the bone into stew size pieces

1/3 cup dal

1/3 cup black lentils

2 tablespoons of barley

ginger

garlic

onions

cilantro (fresh coriander)

spring onions

1 lemon

1 cinnamon stick

3 cardamoms

turmeric

fresh chili

spring onions

olive oil

 

Sauté meat in a little olive oil together with cinnamon, cardamom and salt until browned. Cover with water (just enough water to cover the meat) and let simmer for 20 mins.

 

Wash dal, lentils and barley and add to meat. Add more water (about 4-5 cups) and bring to a boil. Turn heat down and leave to simmer for 30 mins with lid partially covered.

 

Meanwhile take a pan and sautee onions. After a few mins add 2-3 tomatoes, Halim mix, a pinch of turmeric and stir to a paste by adding a little water.

 

When pulses and barley are almost cooked and meat is tender, add salt, halim and tomato mix and let simmer for another 15 mins. If too thick, add water, if too thin let it cook down more.

 

In a bowl whisk together chopped fresh chili, spring onions, vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil and drizzle on top of the soup when serving. garnish with chopped cilantro (fresh coriander).

 

Here’s a load of the delicious wines contributed by my friends of good taste.