Shock, horror, there’s a restaurant in San Diego that I actually dig. Anyone who knows me well enough is aware I’m not a fan of this particular southern Californian city that miraculously gave birth to the man I married. By and large, SD is conservative, inherently uncool and for a relatively large city it feels incredibly suburban. I keep searching for its soul and the closest I’ve ever come is via its high population of Mexicans and the various Asian diaspora communities. In the past we’ve tried dining at restaurants that seem so promising but then disappointment creeps in when we eye the mediocre wine list or get a bite of something where the chef tries hard (or doesn’t try at all) but misses the mark. Enter: The Linkery. There has been a lot of national press about this North Park restaurant. How could you not be intrigued by an eatery that makes their own sausages, worships the entire animal and supports local farms?

We recently bellied up to the bar at Linkery and though I was sad they were out of the Edmunds St John’s wines, I was happy to sip on excellent cask beers (served at proper room temperature) and I actually had a wine from San Diego County, specifically San Marcos, which wasn’t bad at all. I kid you not. Twin Oaks Valley Sunset Red (a mix of Syrah and Cab) – check it out next time you’re stuck in San Diego. For chow, we shared a terrine of beef tongue, wrapped in bacon and served with a chicken egg. Then I enjoyed a steaming bowl of beef tripe (chopped very small) with faro piccolo & chorizo, while Jim feasted on sausage tacos served with a side of bean salad. Everything was so simple and delicious and the ingredients were obviously really good to begin with and, as my belly would say, the food was cooked with love. It reminded me a little bit of Marlowe and Sons or Diner in terms of the style of food. It also made me think of my other favorite out-of-town resto – Cochon in New Orleans.

My only gripe is with the damn TV above the bar. It doesn’t fit in with the rest of the vibe at all.